Tool Time Tuesday...Window Design Wall

Happy Tuesday! Here's one more design wall idea for you...this time it's not on the wall, it's in the window!!

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Do you remember this design wall from pvc? Click HERE to see that post. There was a bigger one too.



I also had this design wall for smaller projects? Click HERE to see this one.

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Well, here is the next "Window of Opportunity".  It's a design wall for a window, that can be easily removed when you're not using it, especially if your sewing room is in your dining room, spare bedroom or a room that you just don't have enough wall space. There is no wall space in my sewing room, so that's why I came up with this simple solution. See my sewing chair in the picture below? I thought I could just lean the big pvc design wall up against the window to my left while sewing. Then I thought, I wish I had something "IN" the window. Ding...the bells were ringing. A design wall curtain!!!

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Here's all you need...a flannel backed tablecloth...$5.00 at Home Goods. You can also use flannel by the yard, but this was 60" x 102" for $5.00, so that's cheap, cheap, cheap!

and 2 tension rods that open or expand to the width of your own window.

I've had these for a while, so not sure how much...maybe under $2.00 each at Walmart.

Oh yeah...you need a window too!

Place a tension rod at the top of the window and...

at the bottom.

This is a dumb picture, because you can't even see the tension rods. I'm leaving it here though, because with my luck I would click to delete it and blogger would delete the wrong picture.

Measure the width of the window.

and then measure the height.

I folded the tablecloth in half, so I could cut the width easier.

I cut mine exactly 28" for the width. The front is vinyl and the back is flannel, so it won't fray. There is no need to turn the edge under.

Even though my window is 64" high, I just used the 60" width of the table cloth.

Fold over the short edges of the tablecloth, vinyl to vinyl, wide enough to fit your tension rod.

Here are the top and bottom folded over. If you want to get rid of the package wrinkles, use a very low heat iron and iron on the flannel side. Be careful not to melt the plastic.

Sew a straight seam all the way across both the top and bottom. Insert rod through the pocket and you are ready to hang it up. Super easy!!

Hang it flannel facing out, pull the rods so the flannel is tight and you are ready to hang your blocks or squares and design away! I took the picture at night, because the green design on the front was showing through in the day light.

Here are some of the I Spy squares I am starting to put together. Boy do they stick to flannel.

When you are done quilting for the day, just pop it out, roll the flannel around the rod and store it away until the next time.

Don't let this "window of opportunity" pass you by...ok, I won't say it again, I promise. Go on, make one for yourself or a friend...they will love it.

Just wanted to add one more design wall I did for over your door...Click HERE for that post

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Have a great Tuesday,

~Karen~

Tool Time Tuesday...Design Wall Board

This might be the craziest TTT yet, but boy does it work for me. Yes, that is an air filter...you know, those skinny little things you put in your A/C or heat ducts to clean the air.
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Well, it won't be filtering the air where you sew, but it sure will help you with your sewing!!
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Here's the front of the package...



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and here's the back.
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This is a close up of the label. The most IMPORTANT thing is to buy the pleated air filters, because they are made with cotton. Please DO NOT buy the FIBERGLASS filters, because they are made of GLASS. Yep, that's right glass. The man said they are made with glass and sprayed with a substance to keep it together. He looked up the white pleated filters and they are made of cotton...so all safe and sound!!
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If you want to double check the kind of filters in your stores, just check with the nice man that I'm always bugging...tell him Karen sent you!!!
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These little gems come in "sew" many different sizes.

One side has thin cardboard pieces that act as support, but this is the smooth side that you'll be using. For what?... you say.

Well, for this!!!! A mini, portable design board. The cotton fabric on the filter makes a great surface for your fabric squares to cling to. You can also use pins too.

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Makes it so easy to change around a block design or great for those mini quilts that we all love and have on our "to do" list.

Here is the filter right behind my sewing machine with some 5 inch charm squares on it to show you how easy it is to have the blocks arranged and right there for you to sew. You can keep it off to the side of your machine too. Handy dandy.

I know I had a tutorial on another design wall with the pvc pipe that came in 2 sizes, but this one is a no brainer. Just take it out of the package and you're done!!

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I also think this would be great for retreats. This will fit perfectly in the bottom of your suitcase when you are traveling and if it gets too much wear and tear after your trip...just throw it away. They are about $2.00 - $4.00 each. Some filters are pricey, so watch out. This one is Ace Hardware's store brand.
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Have a wonderful Tuesday everyone and enjoy a breath of fresh air...filtered air that is!!

~Karen~

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ps...remember DON'T BUY FIBERGLASS or you'll be very itchy...and mad at me!!

Large Design Wall Tutorial...

Webster's definition of procrastinate: to put off doing until later; delay. Well, this tutorial is the perfect example of procrastination. Why did it take me so long? Why did I put it off until now? I made the larger frame at the same time I made this smaller frame, but when it came to sewing the fabric for the covering, that's where I put it aside.
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I've had so many emails about the tutorial for the larger design wall, I put my frustration with the fabric part behind me and here we are...
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This large design wall measures about 6 feet by 4 feet. You can use the easel leg or you can just lean it up against a wall in your sewing room. See the original tutorial in conjunction with this one for all instructions.



The pvc pipes I used are 3/4" and they come in 10 foot lengths. You will need three -10 foot pipes.



You will also need:
4 corner pieces (90 degree angle) smooth on the inside, no threads. Make sure all parts are for 3/4" pipes
1 T unit (has 2 opening on the sides and 1 on the bottom)
1 cap cover for the tripod leg, just to finish off the edge
rubber mallet
tape measure
pencil
hack saw
and skip the box of velcro...that was for the frustrating fabric part that I won't be sharing!!!



Here are the measurements that you will be cutting from the three -10 foot pvc pipes.
From each pipe cut:
*three -6 foot pieces
*you will have three 4 foot pieces left over.
*keep one at 4 feet
*cut the second in half so you will have two 24" pieces
*and the third pieces is just a left over.
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this is the set up for assembly:
the two 24" piece on the top with the "T" joiner in the middle
the 4 foot piece on the bottom
the three 6 foot pieces are the sides and the tripod leg.


close up of the top.

close up of the "T" on the top row.

close up of one of the four corners.

The next few pictures are of the assembly and measuring of the top row.

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Take the two 24" pieces and with the mallet or hammer, tap each piece into the "T" into the side holes.

Take the bottom pipe that is 4 feet and just mark a line at the half way point of 24 inches.

Now take the assembled top row (with the "T" in the middle) and match the halfway pencil mark of the bottom 4 foot pipe to the center of the "T".

Because the "T" adds some inches to the length of the pipe, you need to make sure your top pipe and the bottom pipe are the same size. The picture below shows the extra inches on each side.

Trim the extra pipe with your hack saw.

Now your top and bottom pipes are the same size. (it doesn't look like they are in this picture, but they are.)

All you need to do now is tap all the parts together!!!

To make the tripod leg go back to keep the frame standing up, just twist the "T" joint and the leg until it's at the angle that you want.

Now for a very short version of the fabric frustration. I tried to make a single layer for the fabric cover, because this frame is so large. However, you need the fabric to be taught on the frame not loose where the quilt blocks will fall off. I sewed 2 rod pockets for the bottom pipe and one of the side pipes, then I used velcro for the other side and the top to pull it tight around the pipes. Not good...to be honest...looked like crap!!!

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My suggestion is to make the same type covering as I did for the small frame...like a pillow case. You will use more fabric, but when the front gets dirty, all you need to do is turn it around. The only difference with the larger pillow case is you need to slip the cover over the frame before you add the tripod leg. Make your slip cover out of felt or flannel according to your measurements of the finished frame. See how I measured in the other tutorial (every one's measurements will be a little different, depending on how hard you've hammered the pipes together.) Slip it over the frame and then cut a small hole in the fabric where the "T" joint is, then add your tripod leg.

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If you don't want a free standing design wall, you don't have to add the leg. All you need to do is just lean the frame against a wall.

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If anyone can think of a better method on how to cover this monster, let me know and I'll share it with everyone.

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I'm so happy I can finally check this off my "To Do" list. Actually, I have a lot checked off today...it's a good feeling.

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See you at the hardware store in the pvc aisle!!!

~Karen~

Tool Time Tuesday...Portable Design Wall

First, I would like to thank everyone for their thoughts and prayers for our neighbor who was struck by the pick-up truck while on his bicycle. He was air lifted to our children's hospital that day. His mom said he is one lucky boy...he is waiting for surgery and has alot of healing to do. He is the nicest boy in the world and so is his little brother. They are both polite and well mannered and we love them to pieces. We can't wait til he gets to come home!!
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Now, onto Tool Time Tuesday...in the Plumbing Section!
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How would you like to make this...and use it for
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this...A Portable Quilt Design Wall. Woo Hoo!!! Finished size is 32" x 32".
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The next few pictures are your list of ingredients and the price tag for each at the hardware store. I used 3/4" pipe for everything. Make sure you purchase all the parts that go together...meaning all 3/4". If you buy 1/2" pipe makes sure you buy 1/2" parts to match it.

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This picture has 3 PVC pipes that are 10 feet long and 3/4" wide. For a design wall that is 32" x 32" you will need 2 of these 10 feet pipes. If you would like a smaller wall that would be 23" x 23", you will need 1 pipe that is 10 feet long. (I used these 3 pipes for another larger design wall, which I will be posting probably this weekend)

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one 3/4" , 10 foot pipe is $1.62

Here are all the other parts you will need, which will be explained in detail below. You will also need a tape measure, pencil, hack saw and a rubber mallet.

You will need:

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2 -90 degree elbow pieces for the top corners. Make sure they are smooth on the inside, not threaded.

They are 30 cents each.

Next, you will need 2 -90 degree angled pieces that has a reducer on it. These will be your 2 bottom corners and support legs. I used the 3/4" that reduced it 1/2". You'll see why later.

These were $1.63 each.

These 2 are the parts that go with the above picture. They are called reducing male adapter (what a name!!! I hope you find it on your own and don't have to ask for it by name!!!) They reduce from 3/4" to 1/2".

These are 64 cents each.

These are little caps that just finish off the raw edge on the support feet. You will need 2.

3/4" cap at 32 cents each.

Ok...here we go. This is super easy, but looks long because I'm describing every step through pictures. These instructions are for the 32" x 32" design wall. (If you want the smaller 23" x 23" wall you will need one pipe and cut it into 6 equal parts at 20" for each piece...4 are for the sides and 2 for the legs. You will follow all the same directions below)

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First, take one of the 10 foot pipes and make four pencil marks at 30" each. That will give you the 4 sides. From the second pipe cut 2 pieces that are 12" long. Sorry I didn't take a picture of the 12" mark.

Have the super strong man in your life cut all the pieces for you. You can do it yourself too. I did the rest myself and it's pretty easy. Just start slow with the first movement of the saw, then have at it.

You can also put the pipe in a vice to hold it while you cut it...just don't squeeze the vice too hard on the pipe, just enough to hold it firm. I think you can also ask the hardware store to cut it for you.

This is what you will have:

4 pieces for the sides, top and bottom... 30" each

2 pieces for the legs 12" each

2 top corner angles
2 bottom corner angles with adapters in

2 caps

This is a close up of the adapters for the lower corners. The 2 angles are smooth inside and the smaller one is threaded to screw in the adapter, which is where the legs will go in.

Just screw it in and hand tighten.

Place the lower corners so that the adapters are facing the back and place a 30" piece in the 2 corner pieces as seen below. If they are a little hard to insert, this is where you would use a rubber mallet to tap it in. Use mallet where ever needed...even to tap it apart.

Now add the left and right side (30") pieces into the 2 holes on the top part of the angle.

Take the last 30" piece and place the 2 -90 degree angle corner units on each end.

This is how it looks when assembled. See the adapters facing the back.

Place the 2 caps on the 12" leg pieces to finish off the raw edges. My husband had a great idea for the legs. I tried to make the legs short so they wouldn't stick out too far, but I was worried that it wouldn't keep it steady. He recommended using a funnel and filling the legs with rice when the cap is on, then place them back on the adapters. This way it will weight in down. If you are traveling with this design wall to your guild or retreat, buy 2 more caps to keep the rice inside the legs when you break down the design wall for packing.

Here is a close up of the leg together.

and here is the finished frame....easy peasy. and CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP. Total for pipes and corners is $9.02 plus tax from your state. That is a big WOO HOO. For the 23" x 23" design wall you would only need one pipe so that would be $7.40!! This doesn't include the flannel or felt that you would use to cover it. The fabric directions are next...see below.

Fabric Cover Directions:

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You can use either flannel or felt. For this smaller one, I used flannel that I already had on my design wall and just cut it up. For the larger quilt design wall that I will show you this weekend, I used felt. Both are great for blocks to stick to, but you can always stick them up with pins too.

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First, you need to measure the height of the pvc design wall. Below, I placed a tape measure over the top of the top pvc pipe. Hold the beginning of the tape on one side and measure the distance at the other side.

Mine measured 64". Yours should be close, but it depends on how hard you tapped the pipes into the corner pieces.

Next, you need to measure the width all the way around the whole piece. Place tape measure around the middle and pull a little tight. You want it tight so the fabric will be taught around the frame.

The width of mine was 66 1/2".

This is the only math you have to do... take the width measurement, divide by 2 and add 1/2" seam allowance.

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here is my example:

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66.5 divided by 2 = 33.25 + .5 = 33.75

or

66 1/2" divided by 2= 33 1/4" + 1/2" = 33 3/4"

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So now you will cut a piece of fabric 64" long by 33 3/4" wide (if you get the same measurements as mine on your frame).

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Fold fabric in half right sides together (I don't think there is a right or wrong side of the fabric, but oh well). The picture below shows the square of fabric with the fold at the top. Sew only the left and right sides with a 1/4" seam, leaving the bottom open. Turn right side out.

Slip over frame like a pillow case, with seams lined up the side pipes. If too loose, sew alittle more to tighten it up.

Here is your finished Portable Quilt Design Wall all set to go next to your sewing machine, cutting table or to your next quilt retreat.

This will help you see what blocks may look like in different configurations before you sew them together.

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I really hope you like today's TTT and hope you can use it somewhere in your quilting world. You can make these in any size to fit your needs and they can always be taken apart for traveling (tap apart with the rubber mallet if it gets too tight).

spaceHere's a preview of the second part to this week's Tool Time Tuesday. I was going to add it to today's, but this post was already too long for you. This is the Mama Bear of quilt walls...it's 6 feet by 4 feet and is great to use for whole quilt designs and if you have the space for it. So stay tuned...

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Hope you have a great week,

~Karen~

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also coming soon...is maybe a little carry bag for all the parts so you can take it on the go!!